Manufacture of boots or shoes



(No Model.)

G. W.. DAY.

MANUFACTURE. OF BOOTS 0R SHOES. o. 291,992. Patented Jan. 15, 1884.

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the use of means which are separate from and Ururnn STATES MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS OR SHOES.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 291,992, dated January 15, 1884.

Application filed August 6, 1853. (X0 model.)

2'0 all whom it may concern-.- I

Be it known that I, GEORGE \V. DAY, of Haverhill, iii the county of Essex and State of Massachusetts, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in the Manufacture of Boots and Shoes, of which the following is afull, clear, and exact description.

In the manufacture of machine-sewed boots and shoes it is customary to provide the inner sole with a channel around its toe as well as at other portions to receive the stitches, and this channel is formed in one part of a lip or flap that, as well known, is split or cut from, but yet attached to the main portion of the inner sole, and that preparatory to the sewing is turned back, as it is termed, and after being so turned back as intended it is held during the sewing, so that it cannot by any possibility become misplaced and made liable of being stitched at any portion to the body of the inner sole, which, as is obvious, should it occur, must be remedied in some way or other after the sewing is completed, for the lip to be then turned and disposed upon and over the stitches which are in and along the channel of the inner sole, to cover and conceal them as desired, and otherwise render the boot or shoe fit for wear and use. This turning back and holding or securing of the lip or flap of the channel of the inner sole against being stitched to the body or main portion of said sole while the boot or shoe is being sewed is, as well known, easily accomplished as to all portions of the said lip or flap except at that portion and around the toe, and as to this portion it is not only difficult to properly turn it back and afterward hold and secure it, but, so far as I am aware, itheretofore has not been accomplished practically, if at all, except by attachable to and detachable from the soleas, for instance, the holder-plate described and shown in the Letters Patent of the United States issued to me, dated October 17, 1882, No. 266,018. This holder-plate from practical use has been found most efficient and certain, although deficient or lacking in this important particular, that it is not of itself a part of the inner sole, but is separate and distinct therefrom, necessitating extra labor and handling of an additional part or piece, which, plainly, it would be of an advantage to obviate, if possible, and which is fully obviated by the present invention, which consists, in substance, in the manufacture of machinemade boots and shoes in the formation of said lip or flap of the inner sole at and around the toe portion of a width sufficient for it, the lip at the toe portion to be turned back, and with the portions at its adjoining sides closely doubled and folded, and disposed upon each other and upon the inner surface of the sole, and all in a manner as to be capable of being then secured in place simply by the application of any suitable cement or other suitable fastening to the so-folded-over toe portion and the inner sole against which it is folded.

In the accompanying plate of drawings, Figure 1 is a plan view of the inner surface of an inner sole channeled as ordinary, except in the respects covered by this invention, and the lip or flap of the channel at the toe, as also at the parts adjoining the toe on each side, all of which parts are represented as turned back and folded upon each other and upon the inner sole and secured to the latter in accordance with this invention. Fig. 2 is a longitudinal section on line 2 2, Fig. 1. Fig. 3 is a perspective view with the lip of the channel at the toe and at each side thereof turned up and shown as partially folded, preparatory to being finally folded upon each other and upon the inner surface of the sole, and secured as shown in Figs. 1 and 2.

I11 the drawings, A represents an inner sole. B is a continuous channel surrounding the toe, side, and shank portions, mark ed, respectively, 0, D and E, and formed in one part by a lip, F, which is continuous, and is made by splitting or cutting inwardly from the outer edge, a, toward the central portion, 2), of the sole in a plane parallel, or substantially so, to the inner surface, I), of the sole, but not so as to separate said lip from the sole. This lip has heretofore been cut or split of a width substantially uniform from end to end, preventing its toe portion 0 from being possibly folded upon itself and turned back upon the inner sole in a manner to insure it against accidental displacement in sewing the boot or shoe without the application thereto of a separate holding-plate-such, for instance, as the holdingplate of the Letters Patent aforesaid. In this invention said toe portion of the channelinglip is made of a considerable greater width than the width of the remaining portions of the lip, which are made of a width substantially uniform and as heretofore.

To fold the toe portion 0 and its adjoining portions, as described, for the purpose of properly turning it back and disposing it for the sewing to be performed, first raise the lip, and then, having bent each of its portions 61 and f adjoining the toe portion inward or toward each other, as shown at H, Fig. 3, fold said adjoining portions together with the toe portion, the latter on the outside of the former downward upon the inner surface of the sole, and then compress such folded portions into as close, compact, and flat shape as possible, and fasten the toe portion in position with cement applied between its under surface and the inner surface of the sole with which it is in contact-as, for instance, at K, Figs. 1 and 2thus securing the whole of the lip, folded and turned back, as described, against the in-. ner sole, and in a position obviously most proper and appropriate to be maintained during the sewing operation as practiced in the manufacture of machine-sewed boots and shoes.

The folded and turned-back lip of the sole herein described and shown may be secured After the boot or shoe is stitched, the folded I toe portion can be easily unfastened from the sole and turned up and over as desired, to cover the stitches as usual.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim is-- 1. That improvement in the manufacture of boots and shoes which consists in first channeling the inner sole to form a flap or lip around its edges, then turning in the sides and folding back the toe portion of said flap or lip, and then securing said toe portion to the sole by cement or its equivalent, then securing the inner sole to the upper and'outer sole by stitches, 820., and then turning back said flap and securing it to the channeled portion of the inner sole, substantially as and for the purpose specified.

I 2. That improvement in the manufacture of boots and shoes which consists in channeling the inner sole to form a flap or lip around its edge, which shall be of increased width at its toe portion, then turning back such flap at the toe and folding it upon itself, and then securing it to the bottom of the sole by cement or its equivalent, for the purpose specified.

In testimony whereof I have hereunto set my hand in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

GEORGE V. DAY. lVitnesses:

WM. S. BELLows, EDWIN W. BROWN. 

